Monday, August 28, 2006

The Sartorialist Goes Shopping For Fashion Week -p2

Next stop - Ralph Lauren Mansion at 72nd St.

I really love the new Black Label suits.
I found a perfect 3-button blue suit with a faint white stripe, classic Ralph style but very slim cut. Since I have broad shoulders and a slim waist ,as you can see in the photo, we were faced with an arsenal of alterations but I was prepared with a gameplan.

First - Have the suit fit while wearing the shoes that I had just bought at Barneys (both the black and brown will look great). Getting a suit fitted wearing tennis shoes is just asking for trouble.

Second - The shirt (white spread collar with French cuffs) and we pinned the sleeves to the correct length (right at my wrist bone - I hate when they ride low on my hand). Then we pinned in the body of the shirt, I was a little surprised that the shirt was not more slim cut to begin with.

Third - The pants, we had to take the waist in a bit and taper the leg a bit. Once the legs have been tapered we will decide on the final length at the second fitting.
What i really love about the pants is that they are cut with side-taps and not belt loops! Just like the suit Cary Grant had on in North by Northwest.

Fourth - The jacket. Since the jacket has to work in harmony with the pants and shirt we waited until they were pinned in place at the correct measurements. Of course we had to remove the roll at the back neck of the jacket, then we pinned in the sides and shortened the sleeves (being very careful to get at least a 1/2 inch of cuff). The final alteration was to shorten the length of the jacket about a half inch. They will also re-steam the lapel so it rolls to the middle button.

I will be holding my breath hoping that all this works out correctly but I have had work done at Ralph Lauren before and it was superb.

My only rookie mistake I made while buying the suit. I had actually picked it out a few days before but when I went back for the alterations the salesperson was not there. Of course no other salesman wants to help you during the alterations for no commission so the Mens store manager was very kind to spend some time with me and he made sure I got what I needed, thanks Todd.

Now the real fun begins - buying ties and pocket squares for the suit.

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