Tuesday, February 28, 2006

14th St. - Dress Over Jeans

It has been a slow and incredibly painful experiment to watch but I think some girls are finally getting how to wear a dress over jeans. It never seems to work in the summer, so maybe it is just a layering thing to be done in Fall/Winter.

I should have asked this girl how influenced she was by the recent Marc Jacobs show or if a little guy with longish brown hair and new giant glasses had been stalking her right up until fashion week.


click on the photo to enlarge image.

14th St. - Dress Over Jeans

It has been a slow and incredibly painful experiment to watch but I think some girls are finally getting how to wear a dress over jeans. It never seems to work in the summer, so maybe it is just a layering thing to be done in Fall/Winter.

I should have asked this girl how influenced she was by the recent Marc Jacobs show or if a little guy with longish brown hair and new giant glasses had been stalking her right up until fashion week.


click on the photo to enlarge image.

Men's Vogue -2nd Issue - I Want To Love You

I just picked up the second issue of Men's Vogue - I want so bad to love it but.....

Maybe I misunderstood the audience Men's Vogue was going for but I got the impression that they were targeting the slightly older, sophisticated man that wants something a bit more refined than the current GQ selection, but still no less fashion relevant - GQ for the Borrelli, Bergdorf set. The first issue was great and raised the bar of excellence in men's fashion magazines.

Maybe the first issue just set the bar a little too high.

In my experience, the men that are over 25 and still into fashion are really into fashion, and there is currently a giant void in the magazine market for that niche - perfect timing for Men's Vogue - but this issue has very little real fashion coverage.

The main fashion editorial is a blandish suit story featuring Paul Bettany of the upcoming movie "The DaVinci Code". I guess it is ok but it is just missing that pop of something really special or inspiring. The suits are all a taupy-tan-ish and paired with uninspiring tonal shirts and ties. Putting together exciting (but not necessarily over-dramatic) suit/shirt/pocket square/tie combinations is exactly the kind of direction men want from fashion magazines. The front of the book articles all look very interesting but it is the meat-and-potatoes fashion coverage that I want from Men's Vogue, not more political critiques from a fashion magazine.

The styling of the Tiger Woods story is completely forgettable and the accessories coverage is all golf shoes and golf gloves.

Considering that it is much more difficult for men to dress really great in the high heat of summer, an issue like this could be a valuable tool. Color was all over the runways for Spring 2006 and is in the stores in a big way right now, how about a little direction from Men's Vogue on how to make color work for men over 30 in both our work and causal wardrobes? There are two ties "of color" in the entire magazine.

By far the best fashion is a story called "Life Studies" that was shot on two "real people": "literary power broker" Luke Janklow (shot in his own jacket) and "public intellectual" Noah Feldman. It just proves my point that real guys are so much more aspirational than what the runways and magazines are feeding us.

Men's Vogue has access to all the best brands in the world, so why are so many of the same brands that are already featured in GQ, Esquire, and seemingly every other men's magazine also in Men's Vogue. Can't anyone break the advertisers grip?

Dear Men's Vogue,
We had an incredible first date but the second was a bit shaky; everyone knows I give it up on the third, so I'm crossing my fingers you bring the heat for the next issue.

Men's Vogue -2nd Issue - I Want To Love You

I just picked up the second issue of Men's Vogue - I want so bad to love it but.....

Maybe I misunderstood the audience Men's Vogue was going for but I got the impression that they were targeting the slightly older, sophisticated man that wants something a bit more refined than the current GQ selection, but still no less fashion relevant - GQ for the Borrelli, Bergdorf set. The first issue was great and raised the bar of excellence in men's fashion magazines.

Maybe the first issue just set the bar a little too high.

In my experience, the men that are over 25 and still into fashion are really into fashion, and there is currently a giant void in the magazine market for that niche - perfect timing for Men's Vogue - but this issue has very little real fashion coverage.

The main fashion editorial is a blandish suit story featuring Paul Bettany of the upcoming movie "The DaVinci Code". I guess it is ok but it is just missing that pop of something really special or inspiring. The suits are all a taupy-tan-ish and paired with uninspiring tonal shirts and ties. Putting together exciting (but not necessarily over-dramatic) suit/shirt/pocket square/tie combinations is exactly the kind of direction men want from fashion magazines. The front of the book articles all look very interesting but it is the meat-and-potatoes fashion coverage that I want from Men's Vogue, not more political critiques from a fashion magazine.

The styling of the Tiger Woods story is completely forgettable and the accessories coverage is all golf shoes and golf gloves.

Considering that it is much more difficult for men to dress really great in the high heat of summer, an issue like this could be a valuable tool. Color was all over the runways for Spring 2006 and is in the stores in a big way right now, how about a little direction from Men's Vogue on how to make color work for men over 30 in both our work and causal wardrobes? There are two ties "of color" in the entire magazine.

By far the best fashion is a story called "Life Studies" that was shot on two "real people": "literary power broker" Luke Janklow (shot in his own jacket) and "public intellectual" Noah Feldman. It just proves my point that real guys are so much more aspirational than what the runways and magazines are feeding us.

Men's Vogue has access to all the best brands in the world, so why are so many of the same brands that are already featured in GQ, Esquire, and seemingly every other men's magazine also in Men's Vogue. Can't anyone break the advertisers grip?

Dear Men's Vogue,
We had an incredible first date but the second was a bit shaky; everyone knows I give it up on the third, so I'm crossing my fingers you bring the heat for the next issue.

Stefano Tonchi, New York Times Magazine

Stefano Tonchi, New York Times Magazine

Barneys Girl's Ultimate Party Guest List

Should I throw a party of classic dead people who I probably won't be able to communicate with since I am so in awe? A party for the successful business(wo)men for career advice? Or a party of the fashionable? Ah the choices one has to make!! Ok, here goes nothing:

1. Anna Wintour

For the queen of fashion herself, I will make sure my party starts early enough so that she can drop by for her customary 10 minutes before going off to bed at 10pm. In the 10 minute of her presence, I will hopefully have accomplished the following:

a) admire her ability to rise to the top of the fashion letter without having to know how to write a word.

b) ask her what her secret is

c) determine if she really is the ice queen everyone makes her out to be

and just to spice things up a little, I will also invite

3. Lauren Weisberger author of

Wouldn't that be interesting? This will provide entertainment and much to talk about for me and the rest of my guests.

3. Mischa Barton

Since we are the same age, we'd probably have more in common. And I am just dying to grill her about how she keeps her hair so shiny and perfect whether its straight or curly, tied up or let down. And how she manages to dress so effortlessly chic and whether it actually is effortless!

4. Rose Marie Bravo

The true power businesswoman. I would love for an opportunity to talk to her about her experiences, how she brought Burberry from being a boring old English brand to the height of fashion and learn from her all the business savvy techniques there is to know about the fashion industry. And hopefully, some of her genius will filter into my brain through osmosis during the course of my dinner party.

5. Chad Michael Murray

My very own Prince Charming and eye candy for the rest of the ladies at the table. Am I not a considerate hostess?

6. Harrods Girl. Since Anna is only going to drop by for 10 minutes anyway, I figure I am allowed to invite one more person. And my party simply wouldn't be complete without Harrods Girl!

Phew~ Verbal Croquis poises a tough question.

Black Tie & Jeans

Black Tie & Jeans

Another Lady Of A Cetain Elegance

Another Lady Of A Cetain Elegance

That Skin II

That Skin II

Monday, February 27, 2006

SS06 Dress Trends I: Printed Silk

The spring collections are in their full form. Out shopping this weekend, I was in awe of all the delicious offerings of this spring, trying to take it all in at once.

In particular, I was very inspired by the dresses at Marc by Marc Jacobs. Especially the printed silk ones, like this one shown above. It is just sooo beautiful, with the shiny slinky material and the vibrant bold prints!

Kay Unger New York also has a rather stunning dress, which is just as shiny and colorful, with a more fitted design.

This floral printed dress from Celine is all you need for a hot summer day.

The colors are not just limited to the blue/green palette either. This red printed paisley (i think?) silk dress from Shoshanna does the trick just as well!

Other similar dresses can be found at Anthropologie, like this one here, designed by Anna Sui. Yet another designer design at an affordable price-well relatively anyway. But I definitely love this dress more than any offered at Target by Luella.

This blue dress from Top Shop is not made of silk, but it looks very vibrant and shiny-in a crinkly way.

And lastly there is this silk floral dress from Free People. But please-not with those boots.

Hamish Bowles......European Carry-All

Hamish Bowles......European Carry-All

Layers Of Black

For me, the whole look is all in this close-up. The tiny, motorcycle-ish jacket, layered over the lady-like cardigan, on top of sexy slim jeans. The zipper pulls are icing.

Layers Of Black

For me, the whole look is all in this close-up. The tiny, motorcycle-ish jacket, layered over the lady-like cardigan, on top of sexy slim jeans. The zipper pulls are icing.

Backstage........Frayed Tweed

Notice the frayed, upturned bottom edge of the jacket.

Backstage........Frayed Tweed

Notice the frayed, upturned bottom edge of the jacket.

The Tiny Suit

The Tiny Suit

The Sartorialist In The Press

I hate to admit it but I am a little bit proud of the write-ups The Sartorialist has been getting lately. Here are two,

Fashion Wire Daily

The Sartorialist: A Blog with a Difference
By Massimo O'Neil
February 18, 2006 @ 9:26 PM - Paris
Everyone is talking about fashion blogs at the moment, even if most of them read like stream of consciousness fashion warbles from the seventh row. 

One site with a difference, however, is The Sartorialist, a wee mouthful of a name, we’ll agree, but a novel bite-sized approach to fashion. 

Created by Scott Schuman five months ago, the Satorialist is essentially a men’s wear visual blog, which interprets fashion by concentrating on how editors, critics, buyers and models dress, rather than taking its lead from the catwalks. 

A 38-year-old fashion “veteran,” Schuman worked on the wholesale end industry before launching his own designer showroom, Schuman, which represented young talent like Peter Som and James Coviello. 

Schuman’s prose style ranges from complimentary to laudatory without, happily, plunging into the muck of obsequiousness that afflicts so many bloggers. 

“At it's core The Sartorialist is a mens fashion blog which started because all of the "real" industry guys I knew were so much better dressed and inspirational to me than anything I would see in GQ or other magazines,” Schuman told FWD. 

Blessed with a good eye, neat prose and the boundless energy of bloggers, Schuman is on track to 55,000 visitors/110,000 page views per a month. Readers also get to comment on The Sartorialist’s point and shoot portraits and commentaries with comments of their own. And folks like Carine Roitfeld, Jim Nelson, Meredith Melling Burke and a certain Irish critic we enjoy reading don’t escape unscathed. 

Despite his fresh eye, Schuman does not entirely avoid that old fashion virus – taking oneself a tad seriously. 

“Since The Sartorialist runs 98% of my own photographs, in an abstract way, I'm like a cross between Cathy Horyn and Bill Cunningham,” opines Scott. 

Don’t just love the chutzpah. Try it yourself. 


The Gothamist.com

The professional fashion business is so publicist and celebrity infested that it's almost impossible to enjoy the clothes-- we avoided the tents at Fashion Week like they were infested with avian flu. That's what makes the Sartorialist blog so refreshing-- it's just pictures of stylish people on the street, with the occasional comment: "I could be wrong but this really looks like a French take on American classics. If you click on the photo to enlarge it, notice this is another young guy wearing a tie bar. I smell a trend." The site is sort of a more populist version of the Look Book feature at New York Magazine. Fun!

The Sartorialist In The Press

I hate to admit it but I am a little bit proud of the write-ups The Sartorialist has been getting lately. Here are two,

Fashion Wire Daily

The Sartorialist: A Blog with a Difference
By Massimo O'Neil
February 18, 2006 @ 9:26 PM - Paris
Everyone is talking about fashion blogs at the moment, even if most of them read like stream of consciousness fashion warbles from the seventh row. 

One site with a difference, however, is The Sartorialist, a wee mouthful of a name, we’ll agree, but a novel bite-sized approach to fashion. 

Created by Scott Schuman five months ago, the Satorialist is essentially a men’s wear visual blog, which interprets fashion by concentrating on how editors, critics, buyers and models dress, rather than taking its lead from the catwalks. 

A 38-year-old fashion “veteran,” Schuman worked on the wholesale end industry before launching his own designer showroom, Schuman, which represented young talent like Peter Som and James Coviello. 

Schuman’s prose style ranges from complimentary to laudatory without, happily, plunging into the muck of obsequiousness that afflicts so many bloggers. 

“At it's core The Sartorialist is a mens fashion blog which started because all of the "real" industry guys I knew were so much better dressed and inspirational to me than anything I would see in GQ or other magazines,” Schuman told FWD. 

Blessed with a good eye, neat prose and the boundless energy of bloggers, Schuman is on track to 55,000 visitors/110,000 page views per a month. Readers also get to comment on The Sartorialist’s point and shoot portraits and commentaries with comments of their own. And folks like Carine Roitfeld, Jim Nelson, Meredith Melling Burke and a certain Irish critic we enjoy reading don’t escape unscathed. 

Despite his fresh eye, Schuman does not entirely avoid that old fashion virus – taking oneself a tad seriously. 

“Since The Sartorialist runs 98% of my own photographs, in an abstract way, I'm like a cross between Cathy Horyn and Bill Cunningham,” opines Scott. 

Don’t just love the chutzpah. Try it yourself. 


The Gothamist.com

The professional fashion business is so publicist and celebrity infested that it's almost impossible to enjoy the clothes-- we avoided the tents at Fashion Week like they were infested with avian flu. That's what makes the Sartorialist blog so refreshing-- it's just pictures of stylish people on the street, with the occasional comment: "I could be wrong but this really looks like a French take on American classics. If you click on the photo to enlarge it, notice this is another young guy wearing a tie bar. I smell a trend." The site is sort of a more populist version of the Look Book feature at New York Magazine. Fun!

The German Journalist

The German Journalist

Michael Fink, Fashion Director, Saks Fifth Avenue

Michael Fink, Fashion Director, Saks Fifth Avenue

14th & 9th Ave

14th & 9th Ave

Saturday, February 25, 2006

Milan Fall / Winter 2006 Wrapup V

The week sure flew by. I can't believe there's only Paris Fashion Week left, and only two weeks of school left before Easter holidays. Anyways...

Versace Dontella continues her sucess at the SS06's shows by showing another strong collection. This collection's clothes were not only about glitzy nor slutty. Instead, most garments were mono-colored, beautifully cut clothes, and still retaining the glamour of course. The colors revolved around navy, purple, green and black and many fabrics used were shiny (such as silk and patent leather). The collection basically consisted of coats, and lots and lots of dresses. And speaking of dresses, they are SO gorgeous, and obvious glam in an elegant way. You take one glance at the collection and you'll know FW06's Versace women is all about strength.

Fendi

I'm sure everyone knows about the photographers' stage accident before the show, which could explain why the Fendi runway photos look rather sh*tty. But anyhow, let's focus back on the clothes. Hmm, on the first glance, I really didn't like this collection, thinking it was awkward and dull. And on second glance, I still didn't like the collection. The clothes had an interesting concept behind the design but I can't totally get into the mood of the collection. There was also a seriously overwhelming selection of fur coats. While some is great luxury, this was just too much:
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However, I did notice an interesting similarity between this collection and the Dolce & Gabbbana collection -both have the military and princess look from the respective inspired eras. Take a look of the transfomation from military to royalty at Fendi FW06:
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Image hosting by Photobucket
In the Napolean themed Dolce & Gabanna FW06 show, again notice the military and princess contrast:
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Image hosting by Photobucket
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